Opa's Pilgrimage

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2010-03-18T23:10:00.000-07:00

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Friends of the Camino

2005-07-19T18:05:00.000-07:00

Back at Home

Leaving Finisterre and starting the way back home was filled with proud feelings to have accomplished a kind of mission and eager to share the experiences with friends and family.

But also I feel a kind of sadness to let go of a life with friends I were connected in a spiritual way of trust and being in a world of magic where things happened to me and to my friends on the camino.
I’m not really back into my so called “normal life”.

Before I leave that kind of twilight zone, I would like to share my present thoughts about my pilgrimage.

When I started this amazing journey in Saint Jean Pied de Port, I saw my Pilgrimage as a kind of sportive challenge in my life and when I was asked, why am I doing this, I replied, because “I’ll prove to myself, that I’m still alive”.

But now, I know that this 800 km sportive challenge has been good for my body, but my Pilgrimage was a big learning process for my soul in a kind of magic and spiritual way for me.

I will remember most of all the people who I call my friends now. We shared joy, we talked about our sorrows, we let run our tears and we were happy in a wonderfully understanding world of friendship.

I learned, as a not religious person, that spirituality is also present in my life.

And the magic things that happened to me on the Camino I can’t believe they just happened by accident.

Finisterre

2005-06-08T17:00:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I arrived (by bus) in Finisterre. As soon as I left the bus I was surrounded by the old group. Melitta and Alexander were just starting their return trip. I found a room (tip from Christa who is staying in the next street) in a little inn with a view over the harbour for 15 Euro per night and I have booked it for five nights.

Today I went exploring through town and right away met Toni, who had set out with me from Saint Jean Pied de Port. Tonight we will meet in a bar in the harbour to say goodbye. I constantly meet familiar people and most of them remember my limping and are surprised that I made it here. Well, I had come close to giving up, but I have to thank the “Camino” for making it to the end.

Now I have a real cold and my nose is running. Good that I still have the little bottle of Olbas from Joannes. Sometimes I was tempted to give it away or leave it somewhere.

Finisterre - the End of the Earth - is not really the end of this blog. I will continue to write. So stay tuned!

End of Journey - June 5 (Day 37): Monte del Gozo to Santiago

2005-06-05T11:27:00.000-07:00

Walked 5 km from 6:00 to 7:15

The path went down to Santiago and the emotions were high when I had my picture taken at the “Santiago” city sign. I was the first in the office, collecting my certificate for completing the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. There, too, the mood was great; I recognized many people and they were still congratulating me on my birthday. Then there was the pilgrims mass with 600 to 800 pilgrims in the cathedral and a sea of tearful faces. Nobody was shy and everyone gave way to tears. I saw so many familiar faces, including Alexander and Melitta who I tried to reach for a week so that we could celebrate this event together. At the end of the mass, Maggie greeted me. She was already on her return trip. We will all meet today to say goodbye. I expect this to be very emotional. Now is the question how we have changed, how we see the world and what will daily life bring us in our respective countries. It'’s very strange for me not to walk any more, having arrived at the end of the journey. I have had lots of experiences, mostly within myself, and sharing with others who are on the same journey.

Thanks to those who followed my journey, and thanks for your encouragement.

June 4 (Day 36): Ribadiso to Monte del Gozo

2005-06-05T11:26:00.000-07:00

Walked 26 km from 6 to 7:30

Terribly hot. At the first coffee stop, Christa caught up with me and we wanted to catch up with the old group. We took many breaks. 13.5 hours was the longest day on the Camino. Arrived in Monte del Gozo, a giant tourist complex - we were exhausted. One good thing was that I could do all my laundry and we knew tomorrow would be the big day! We did meet Brigitte in the refugio. I went to bed after ten, feeling numb.

June 3 (Day 35): Palas De Rei to Ribadiso

2005-06-05T11:24:00.000-07:00

Walked 25 km from 6:15 to 2:30

Foggy in the morning, then warm and very warm. The landscape here is almost tropical with palm trees in gardens, luscious flowers and trees that remind me of our Arbutus trees. In the morning I walked through a forest with marshes with a loud chorus of frogs. Saw a few slugs which reminded of Bowen and our garden. During the heat of day I walked through cool oak forests. Met Kati from Munich, who has walked with our group before, at a coffee bar at breakfast. When she told me about fleas in one refugio I immediately became itchy. At lunch I met Florence with her flute and then continued walking alone taking many breaks. At the refugio, Christa and Brigitte arrived after me - I was happy that I made it before them. I can walk longer distances, but I am still careful because I don't want to go back to the pain. Later, some people from Köln (Cologne) and Quebec joined us. They all knew about my birthday and we celebrated it with a couple of bottles of red wine. A German minister, Klaus, gave me his birthday blessing.

June 2 (Day 34): Portomarin to Palas de Rei

2005-06-02T23:18:00.000-07:00

Walked 18 km from 9:30 to 2:30

I slept in – the hotel bed was too comfortable – and I missed getting to the meeting point to start the day with the others. I told the people at the hotel that I missed meeting the others because of sleeping in. They gave me some birthday cake and hearing my story, a taxi driver drove me (as a birthday present) about 5 to 6 km to catch up with my friends. I did not meet them and walked alone through the beautiful landscape and small villages. At the kilometer marker of “68 km to Santiago” I waited for somebody to come by to take my picture. After all, it was my 68th birthday!

When I arrived in Palas De Rei, my pilgrim friends congratulated me and I was surprised how they knew. Alexander, Melitta, Christa and Florence placed birthday wishes (giving the time and date) for me at a well. In my attempt to catch up, I walked right past the well and didn’t see the note. Because they mentioned the time, I now can figure our their arrival time. Six of my pilgrim friends have already arrived, as well as Brigitte and Florence. We will all meet at 7 when we will get our pilgrims’ meal. Unfortunately, the refugio is full already and I hope that we will all see each other again somewhere.

June 1 (Day 33): Saria to Portomarin

2005-06-02T23:15:00.000-07:00

Walked 21 km, 6:30 –

Foggy, sunny, warm, very warm. Walked with a Spaniard who had foot problems. Checked into a hotel (30 Euro), enjoyed the bathtub and grooming without 50 people watching me. Met Brigitte in the evening and in the church, at the pilgrims’ communion, all of a sudden Christa sat beside me. Somehow we all cry easily. In the evening Florence played the flute outside the church, and it made me cry. There are such moments and it’s good that we pilgrim friends are not ashamed and that we don’t have to hide our feelings.

Potomarin is a small town beautifully situated beside a giant dammed lake, which has buried several villages. A church, where we had the pilgrims' communion, had been saved before the area was flooded by taking it down stone by stone, each one being numbered and the church was rebuilt on the present site.

Brigitte notified the old group by cell phone where we were planning to be tomorrow. Some of them remembered that it was going to be my birthday. We decided to meet for an early start.

89 km to go to Santiago!

May 31 (Day 32): Triacastela to Sarria

2005-05-31T22:50:00.000-07:00

Walked 21 km from 6:30 to 1:00

I started out alone and took the route through Samos, walking through beautiful forest, small bridges, very old villages and always alone. It was worthwhile to take that route. Unfortunately I was so exhausted after Samos that I took a taxi (for 4 Euro) shortly before Sarria to get a ride into town. The refugio here is not so good, cold showers and we are not allowed to wash our clothes. Since I have no clean clothes left, I went and found a laundry place, where I will be able to pick up my clean clothes at 8 tonight.

110 km to go to Santiago!

May 30 (Day 31): Hospital Da Condesa to Triacastela

2005-05-31T22:49:00.000-07:00

Walked 17 km from 7:00 to 12:00

Met Christa again in the refugio. She went on to the next one because she didn’t like the dirty showers. I was too tired and went to bed right away. The small rooms there were pleasant with only four beds, and that was a good night for me as opposed to sleeping in a room with 60.

May 29 (Day 30): Ambasmestas to Hospital Da Condesa

2005-05-31T22:48:00.000-07:00

Walked 24 km from 7:00 to 1:00

Lost the last group and took the wrong turn going up the mountains to Laguna de Castilla. But I saw on my map that I was going in the right direction. I was walking on a highway. It was terribly foggy and, reading a sign, I almost got run over by a car. The driver was more shocked than me because killing a pilgrim means bad luck. The driver took me up to the top where I saw familiar faces of people who had their packs transported there. Unfortunately we had no view because of the fog, and we all continued walking, half blind, to Laguna de Castilla, and there the two refugios were full. So I continued to hobble on to Hospital Da Condesa. There I found an almost new refugio where I met two students, Ivo and Matthias, from Leibzig. We were thrilled seeing the sign “140 km to Santiago”.

May 28 (Day 29): Cacabelos to Ambasmestas

2005-05-31T22:47:00.000-07:00

Walked 24 km from 6:30 to 3:00

Walked with a group of five Austrians and again met Tony. Got two walking sticks from a couple from Stuttgart – right away the world looks different! The cherries are starting to ripen and it’s warm to very warm here.

May 27 (Day 28): Ponferrada to Cacabelos

2005-05-31T22:14:00.000-07:00

Walked 16 km from 7:00 to 2:00

Met Tony, Mika and Christina and walked a bit with Christa, but most of the time I am walking alone. I am too slow. Heat and limping forced me to walk a shorter distance.

May 26 (Day 27): El Acebo to Ponferrada

2005-05-27T07:24:00.000-07:00

Walked 17 km from 8:00 to 3:30

Walked together with Christa the whole way very slowly with many stops.

May 25 (Day 26): Rabanal Del Camino to El Acebo

2005-05-27T07:23:00.000-07:00

Walked 18 km from 7:00 to 3:00

Climbing steadily up to the 1500 pass, and we are now on a plateau at about 900 m. Saw Brigitte again and later Alexander with Melitta, then finally found the cross where I placed the Butler’s stone. Received pilgims’ blessings at a congregation. A woman from Hamburg, Christa joined our group. I walked very slowly but caught up with the group at the refugio. Christa has a health clinic in Hamburg and was able to help me with Reiki.

May 24 (Day 25): Astorga to Rabanal Del Camino

2005-05-27T07:20:00.001-07:00

Walked 20 km from 8:00 to 4:00

A hilly walk, climbing steadily, warm to very warm.

Stopping at a coffee bar in a little mountain village, I was overjoyed to again meet Mika, the man from Finland who is now walking with his wife Christina who flew in to join him. We walked together. His wife also had difficulty with hiking. At the refugio I also met Toni, the Californian I had met in the first days.

Too many beds too close together in this refugio.

My left leg and my right foot always hurt in the beginning and after resting.

Photos Uploaded

2005-05-25T00:28:00.000-07:00

Day 4: Pamplona to Puente La Reina

Day 4: Pamplona to Puente La Reina
Originally uploaded by Opa.

View other photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/opa/sets/236886/

May 24: On the road again

2005-05-25T00:03:00.000-07:00

It’s 7:30 and I am about to set out on my day’s walk. I feel ok, but I will take it easy today.

May 23 - The first batch of photos

2005-05-25T00:01:00.000-07:00

Today I am feeling a lot better and if I continue to feel better, I’ll be on my way again tomorrow.

Seeing me limping to the reception desk at the hotel, the receptionist must have felt pity and let me persuade her to give me the key for the computer to upload some of my photos. So, finally, here is the first batch of 66 photos.

They can be viewed at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/opa/sets/236886/

Photos are not in exact order, but are grouped by days. I would have liked to upload more photos, but I can’t overstay my welcome, especially since others are waiting to use the computer

One more day of Rest

2005-05-22T15:29:00.000-07:00

I did go to the hospital today. The doctor confirmed that I have a muscle cramp in my left leg and the beginning of tendonitis in my right foot. I can walk much better already, but the doctor suggested that I stay one more day before continuing my walk, and I should cut down on the kilometers I walk daily. I think I am going to heed the doctor’s advice, so I have booked another night at the hotel.

It’s only 250 km to Santiago de Compostella, and I should manage that easily before my flight to Vienna leaves on June 13.

It’s sunny here, but there is a cold wind coming from the mountains. I went out only briefly today, went to the cathedral and to the refugio again and saw familiar faces. People there had suggested I see a doctor. Had a long sleep in the afternoon and am just coming back from dinner, to go right back into bed. I am tired and am looking forward to sleeping in.

Still in Astorga – Resting my Legs

2005-05-22T08:48:00.000-07:00

I have free internet acces in the hotel. Resting feels good. I was only briefly out for breakfast and stopped by the refugio to see who else was there. Brigitte from Northern Germany was still there because she walked too much the day before and is spending a day of rest. Maybe I’ll go to the refugio for dinner, otherwise I am going to stay put and won’t go far from the hotel so that I can lie down if I need to.

It’s not so bad with my glasses, the lenses are not broken and I can see enough without them. I like the landscape like that, it looks like a monet painting. I wish I could upload the 250 photos I have made so far.

Even with this rest period, I will have plenty of time to get to Santiago de Compostela to catch my flight to Vienna. Actually I don’t even have to walk to Finisterre at the Atlantic.

Greetings to all who are following my walk through this diary.

Temporary Defeat

2005-05-22T00:47:00.000-07:00

On May 21st I left San Miguel del Camino together with Kurt at 6:30. Weather was ok. We followed a pilgrim and there were a few behind us. We all followed like sheep and missed a turn-off. Had to walk back a long way.

The landscape was beautiful and we are heading to higher ground. I have not yet reached the cross where the Butler's stone is to be placed.

In the afternoon, after the lunch break, I suddenly had real trouble walking. My left leg along the thighs hurt with every step. I took another break and Maggie came by, offering to walk with me and Kurt. I sent them along and said I would take a hotel in Astorga and would meet them for dinner.

Walking was very slow from that point on. I had to shift my weight to the other leg, causing my foot to swell. I did make it to the hotel in Astorga, limping all the way. I am staying here for two nights (41 Euro per night). Took a hot bath, put healing cream on both legs and took Ibuprofen.

In the evening I did make it to the refugio and to dinner and met Brigitte, Maggie, Kurt and others.

After the first night in the hotel, I am still limping. For me very frustrating. No blisters, never any pain, always walked good distances and now I am limping. Today, I am starting slowly, looking at the town, and tomorrow I think I will be able to carry on. I may walk less kilometers daily, but I still have lots of time.

Day 21 (May 20): Leon to San Miguel del Camino

2005-05-20T22:01:00.001-07:00

Walked 25 km from 6:30 to 1:30
Brand new refugio, two-bed rooms, 7 Euro per person. I share a room with Kurt. In an hour we’ll got out to eat and early tomorrow morning, when it’s still cool, we will walk towards the mountains.

Leon, a beautiful city

2005-05-20T22:01:00.000-07:00

I loved Leon. A great city with parks along the river, lots of little cafes along the small streets in the old city, where you can sit outside. Leon has the most beautiful cathedral I have seen so far.
Went for dinner in “downtown” Leon with Maggie, Brigitte and Melissa. We all liked Leon very much and would move here in an instant. But, we all realized how much more expensive things are here compared to the small towns and villages. So I left Leon this morning. I have not met the others who stayed in different refugios.
Walked with Kurt from Vienna to San Miguel del Camino. In the distance we saw the mountains, and, because we were in good condition, walked further than planned so that we would have to walk less kilometers through the mountains. It’s very warm again. Now I am faster than my friends, but I hope to meet up with them in the next few days. Tomorrow I’ll come to the place where I will leave the stone from the Butlers.

Leon

2005-05-19T22:12:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Leon today and first of all did the laundry.

Day 18 (May 17): Calzadilla to Sahagun
Walked 24 km from 7:30 to 1:30, together with the "old" group (Alexander, Melitta and Brigitte), and met Maggie from UBC and Melissa from UVic. Slept in a refugio at the church. We shared in making our meal there.

Day 19 (May 18): Sahagun to Reliegos
Walked 31 km from 7:00 to 2:30
I separated from Alexander and the group since Melitta was in pain and I could walk faster. Walked the first part with Maggie and then I walked an alternative route. I mostly walked alone. The weather is nice and warm now. Unfortunately I broke my glasses!

Day 20 (May 19): Reliegos to Leon
Walked 26 km from 6:30 to 12:30
I walked a while with Brigitte who I had met again, but Brigitte was fed up to walk on the bad road and through the endless industrial areas on the outskirts of Leon. I carried on and continued walking in great heat and arrived here in quite good shape. Here in the refugio I recognized old faces of people who I had met two weeks ago. After the laundry I'll tour through the town.

Made It Halfway

2005-05-16T23:46:00.000-07:00

Day 16 (May 15): Fromista to Carrion De Los Condes
Walked 21 km from 6:45 to 1:30
Took alternate route along river, with the old group. In the evening, received pilgrim blessing in church. I read the English version of the prayer to the English pilgrims, then the priest gave his blessing with holy water. We pilgrims held hands in a circle. I must admit, it was a special and solemn moment.

Day 17 (May 16): Carrion De Los Condes to Calzadilla
Left in the morning at 7, in pouring rain and walked 18 km along a straight route in cold rain. Arrived at 11. I learned that the straight path can be a difficult one!
Here at Calzadilla I am doing my laundry and am sitting at a computer, wearing my last clean clothes and I am freezing. It’s funny, but this refugio even has a swimming pool.
When my clothes are dry, I’ll go to the village for something to eat.

Days 8 - 15: Cold, Sore Toe, Lost in Burgos

2005-05-14T23:19:00.000-07:00

Wednesday, May 11, 9:37
Difficulties with the keyboard here. Following is my route from Day 8 to Day 12:

Day 8: Navarrete to Azofra
Walked 25 km from 6:30 to 12:00 noon. Saw the Roland Memorial.

Day 9: Azofra to Grañon (still in the Province of Rioja)
Walked 22 km from 7:30 to 12:30

Day 10: Grañon to Villafranca Montes de Oca
Walked 29 km from 6:30 – 2:00

Day 11: Villafranca Montes de Oca to Atapuerca
Walked 19 km from 7:00 to 11:30

Day 12 (May 11): Atapuerca to Burgos
Walked 19 km from 7:30 to 11:30

Burgos:
I stayed in a hotel (30 Euro), washed my clothes, saw the sights and the city. Heavy thunderstorm in the evening.

Day 13: Burgos to Hornillos del Camino
Left at 6:30, but didn’t find the way out of Burgos, asked people for directions. They were very friendly, but in the end, I arrived back at the hotel – just on the opposite side of the street. I was really mad, took a taxi to the outskirts of the city and finally started my walk at 9:00. All that in the rain, which continued all day.

Day 14 (May 13): Hornillos des Camino to Castrojeriz
Walked 21 km from 6:30 to 12:00
Cold, rain, cold sun. Stayed in refugio that was still under construction and had a swallow’s nest in the hallway.

Day 15 (May 14): Castrojeriz to Fromista
Walked 25 km from 6:30 to 1:30
In the morning it was cold – 3 Degrees C. I wore all my clothes, had pain in my big toe. I changed back into my sandals and that helped. I’ll go buy some groceries now because tomorrow is Sunday and nothing will be open. At the moment I am walking with three very nice people from Bodensee, Germany.

Day 11 (May 10): Atapuerca, Burgos

2005-05-11T07:06:00.000-07:00

This report is a result of my telephone conversation with Anne (Internet connections are still difficult to find. Sometimes there are computers, but they are not working or not connected.):

I am continuing at a good pace and have almost reached the city of Burgos in the province of Burgos. This is the third province, with four more before Finisterre. Attended my first ever catholic mass including communion. Met a woman from Squamish who knows people I know. Still see the other companions on and off. The refugios are filling up early, so the aim is to start early in the morning to arrive in time to get a bed for the night. When lining up to get a place in a really modern refugio with tiled bathrooms and comfortable rooms for two (as opposed to rooms for 30!), a German woman from Bremen and I quickly decided to pose as a couple so we would be allowed to share a room (and not to lose our potential beds to a real couple waiting in line behind us). There were even washing machines - so no hand washing that night.
Still no blisters! I was walking in my Bluntstones in the beginning but, especially going downhill, there was friction. Now I am wearing my Columbia sandals with great success. The backpack is the only burden and I have already parted with some things to reduce bulk and weight. I have been offered to have my pack driven to the next place or to take a taxi. But I want to walk the whole way and I can do it. I do have to carry enough water and food for the day. Stores are often closed between 2 and 4 or sometimes until 6. I have lost 10 pounds and am glad to have a belt, which is in its last notch.

I am starting to miss the ocean and am already looking forward to the Atlantic where I will spend some time at the end of the journey. It's fascinating to listen to others talk about their reasons to go on this journey and about their life. Many are middle-aged to older, not many young people.

My next stop will be in Burgos where I plan to stay in a hotel and spend a day of rest, hopefully finding an Internet café and a place to upload my pictures.
Greetings to all and thanks to those who have sent messages (I can read messages when accessing my blog or through hotmail, but I can’t reply individually).

Day Seven – Navarrete

2005-05-06T23:43:00.000-07:00

It’s difficult to get on the internet. I am getting ahead pretty fast due to good weather and the company of pleasant people.
I am already in Navarete and I am doing great. We, an Australian, one from Alaska, one from the Czech Republic and an Italian woman and myself, are not always walking together but meet up often. I am mostly traveling with the Italian woman. She speaks Spanish, Italian and German.I enjoy conversations with her.

Day 5: Visited the wine well, which really dispensed wine – for free! Slept in a refugio, had to take off shoes (everything stays quite clean inside). The Italian woman and I made our own supper with lots of salad, but no wine, even though it was free.

Day 6: Villamayor de Monjardin to Viana – walked 31 km from 6:30 to 3:30. Rain in the morning, then windy and some difficult climbs. Refugios full again and slept on the floor in the dining room. In the evening went to a pub with other pilgrims, saw a bullfight and drank red wine.

Day 7: (Friday, May 6)
Viana to Navarrete – walked 21 km from 6:30 to 2:00. Again very hot, 32 degrees, but with cold wind over the hills. I am tired today because of sleeping on the floor last night. Walked again with the Italian woman and the man from the Czech Republic, also met the guy from Alaska.

I am a day ahead of the schedule according to the guide book. That’s because the refugios were full and there was no hotel. So I just continued walking with the people I got to know. I am the oldest of this group and they call me “Santo Horsto”. Walking is no problem, thanks to my training on Bowen. I still have not had any blisters, but today I had to deal with my toenail which I had damaged on my training walks.

As I already said, things are not as cheap as expected, but since I make most of my own meals now, it’s not so bad. Along the way, there are also offers of small meals for a donation.
Even though I often walk with others, we each walk with our own thoughts. During rest periods there is some banter. It’s good to have fun and laugh about ourselves.

Day Four - Puente La Reina

2005-05-03T22:20:00.000-07:00

Today I made it in record time from Pamplona to Puente La Reina because I walked with a Swiss guy who started out from Geneva. They call him the “Swiss Locomotive” here. He has been traveling for over a year already.
(I can’t get onto my blog or upload photos onto the site. At least I can get onto hotmail and Anne will post my information. Thanks to all who have responded and asked about my journey.)
Actually I wanted to visit the church Ermita San Salvador near Obanos, as suggested by Hilary and Robin. The Swiss man was so fast and I was in such good condition, that I passed by the turn-off to the church and never saw it! The good thing was, that I met the French woman again who woke me up in the mountains. By now, I am known as the Canadian who had to be woken up twice in the mountains.
The landscape through the Navarra today was hilly, green and led me through fields over a mountain range full of windmills as alternative power generators that made the ridges look like they were planted with windmills. As far as the eyes could see, there were those white windmills; probably does not look so nice, but better than steaming power plants. I had to walk along the ridge for a while with very strong winds. I have made beautiful photos.
Here in Puente La Reina is a super clean refugio for only 7 Euro. Only the internet is not so cheap, if only I could type faster.
Tomorrow I am not going to walk with the “Swiss Locomotive”. I want to take my time and savour the landscape. It’s still quite warm, over 30 Degrees C.

German Version:
Also heute von Pamplona in Recordzeit nach Puente La Reina weil ich mit einem Schweizer gelaufen bin, der schon von Genf gelaufen kommt; man nennt ihn hier die “Schweizer Lokomotive”. Er ist jetzt schon über ein Jahr unterwegs. Ich wollte eigentlich den Ratschlag von Robin and Hilary befolgen und einen Abstecher nach der Kirche Emilia San Salvador bei Obanus machen. Aber der Schweizer war so schnell und ich in so super Kondition, dass ich bei der Raserei die Abbiegung verpasst hatte. Das gute dabei war, dass ich die Französin wieder traf, die mich in den Bergen aufgeweckt hatte. Inzwischen ist mein Ruf voraus, dass ich der Kanadier bin, der zweimal in den Bergen geweckt werden musste.
Die Landschaft heute durch die Navarra war huegelig, grün und führte durch bebaute Felder über eine Bergkette voll mit Windmühlen für alternative Stromversorgung. Die ganze Gipfelkette war mit diesen Mühlen bepflanzt. Sieht vielleicht nicht so schön aus, aber besser als dampfende Kraftwerke. Ich musste eine Zeitlang auf diesem Gipfel wandern und es war sehr starker Wind. Habe auch wieder schöne Fotos gemacht.
Hier in Puenta La Reina bin ich in einer super sauberen Herberge, für nur 7 Euro. Nur das Internet ist nicht so billig weil ich nicht so schnell tippen kann. Fotos werde ich später rauflegen, wenn ich die Möglichkeit dazu habe.
Morgen laufe ich nicht mit der “Schweizer Lokomotive” und nehme mir mehr Zeit, die Landschaft zu geniessen. Das Wetter ist immer noch sehr warm, über 30 Grad.

Day Three: Pamplona

2005-05-02T07:17:00.000-07:00

Today, I only walked to Pamplona (15.3 km). Last night at Larrasoaña was not so great. The wind blew building dust underneath the tarped roof (the church is being remodeled) over our sleeping bags. When we were finally tucked in by midnight, bats flew overhead and the women shrieked. Since there were no washrooms or toilets, we all got up at 6, and, unwashed, I ate half a sandwich with water and left at 7. We were not impressed when the priest did not even and we did not make a donation. A big part was again uphill. I am walking pretty steady and when I see pilgrims that I have met at the refugios, the Spaniards say to me “Hola Piligrimo Americano”.

There are many French on the Camino, and I mostly get by with French and in the refugios English is spoken a lot. The few Germans I have seen are very polite and mostly speak English.

I arrived in Pamplona about 11, found a hotel for 50 Euro including breakfast. The first thing was a long shower. Then on to do my laundry. Nothing is open between 2 and 4, so I’ll have to hand wash :(

I am a bit hungry and feel like a salad and something cold.

I forgot to write about my first day, that the road was 24 km uphill and only 2 km downhill. The jetlag did bother me and I should have waited a couple of days before setting out on that uphill hike.

I have not made many photos yet and will ask whether I can plug in my card reader here.

Greetings to all, especially to Chantal. I am going to eat and will probably meet a few of the other pilgrims who shared the night with me yesterday, and who also wanted to spend a night at Pamplona.

Tomorrow I’ll sleep in and am not planning a big hike.

German Version:
Heute bin ich nur bis Pamplona gelaufen (15,3 km). Die Nacht war nicht so schön, denn der Wind blies direkt unter die Ueberdachung, die Planen flogen mit Baustaub (die Kirche wird umgebaut) über unsere Schlafsaecke. Als wir so um Mitternacht alles halbwegs zurechtgezogen hatten, flogen die Fledermäuse ueber unsere Köpfe und die Frauen kreischten. Da wir weder Toiletten noch Waschgelegenheiten hatten, sind wir alle (etwa 30 Pilger) um 6 Uhr aufgestanden und ungewaschen habe ich ein halbes Brot mit Wasser runtergewürgt und bin dann um etwa 7 Uhr losgewandert. Wir waren alle so sauer darüber dass der Pfarrer nicht aufgetaucht ist und keiner von uns hat Geld gegen. Es ging wieder eine grosse Strecke aufwärts. Ich laufe ziemlich flott und wenn ich Pilger sehe, die ich von den Herbergen kenne, sagen die Spanier zu mir “Hola Piligrimo Americano”. Es sind viel Franzosen auf dem Camino und ich wurschtle mich mehr mit französisch durch und in den Herbergen spricht man viel englisch. Die paar Deutsche die ich gesehen habe sind sehr höflich und sprechen meist englisch.
Ich war heute etwa so gegen 11 Uhr in Pamploma und fand ein preiswertes Hotel für 50 Euro einschliesslich Frühstück. Jetzt habe ich erst mal lange geduscht und mich in Ruhe fertiggemacht. Mit meinen schmutzigen Sachen wollte ich gerade zu einem Waschsalon: Leider sind hier alle Läden einschliesslich Lebensmittelgeschäfte von 2 bis 4 geschlossen. Es sieht so aus, dass ich alles, oder die wichtigsten Sachen im Hotel mit der Hand waschen werde. Ich habe etwas Hunger und werde was salatiges und kaltes essen.
Ich hatte vergessen zu schreiben, dass der erste Tag über die Pyrenäen von Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, die Strecke die ich gelaufen und eingeschlafen bin, 24 km aufwärts war und 2 km abwärts. Ich war doch sehr fertig durch die Zeitumstellung. Ich hätte mindestens noch zwei Nächte vorher schlafen sollen bevor ich den Aufstieg gemacht hatte.
Ich habe nicht zu viele Fotos gemacht und ich werde mal hier fragen, ob ich meine Fotos hier auf meinen Blog aufladen kann.
Grüsse an alle, ganz besonders an Chantal. Ich gehe jetzt einen Happen essen und vielleicht treffe ich ein paar Pilger von der letzten Kirche, die alle wie ich ein Hotel suchen wollten.
Morgen werde ich mich etwas ausschlafen und keine grossen Sprünge machen. Ich weiss nicht wann ich wieder ans Netz kann.

Day Two

2005-05-01T09:40:00.000-07:00

Sunday, May 1, 8:42 pm

End of Day Two:
I only have 12 minutes on the internet. Am in Larrasoaña. It was hard to go over the mountains, I fell asleep because of jetlag. Other pilgrims woke me up. But I made it – at temperatures of 34 C. Everything is more expensive than expected. This night I am sleeping outside a church, in an open area with a roof. Walking is ok, only some jetlag still. Food for pilgrims is good, but I am not very hungry.

Ende des 2. Tages:
Ich habe nur 12 Minuten Zeit. Bin in Larrasoaña. War sehr hart über die Berge, bin eingeschlafen wegen Zeitverschiebung. Andere Pilger haben mich geweckt. Aber ich habe es geschafft bei 34 Grad C. Es ist alles teurer als ich dachte. Heute nacht muss ich bei einer Kirche draussen schlafen, allerdings überdacht. Laufen geht ganz gut, nur noch ein bisschen Probleme mit Zeitverschiebung. Essen für Pilger ist gut, aber ich habe nicht viel Hunger.

First Stop: Frankfurt

2005-04-28T22:19:00.000-07:00

First stop: Frankfurt
Originally uploaded by Opa.

This is where I met Johannes after a long, cramped flight from Vancouver to Frankfurt, spending time with Johannes waiting for the connecting flight to Toulouse. The flight there was great. Arrived in Toulouse around 7 pm. Taxi from the airport was 30 Euro and the train ticket to Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port was 38 Euro. The train leaves at 10 tomorrow morning. Now I am dead tired. Jetlag and temperatures of 28 degrees C here don't help.

In German:
Ich bin gegen 19 Uhr in Toulouse im Hotel angekommen. Taxi vom Flughafen 30
Euro. Habe mir soeben Bahnfahrkarte gekauft - 38 Euro. Der Fug von Vancouver
nach Frankfurt war entsetzlich eng. Die Zeit mit Johannes in Frankfurt war sehr angenehm. Der Flug nach Toulouse war sehr gut. Nun bin ich zum umfallen mÃ¼de. Morgen um 10 Uhr geht es weiter mit dem Zug nach Saint-Jean-Pied-De-Port mit 1x umsteigen. Uebrigens es ist es hier in Toulouse 28 C warm. Auch das schmeisst mich bald um.

Spain Map

2005-04-25T22:49:00.000-07:00

Spain Map
Originally uploaded by Opa.

This is my last post before setting out on my trip in a couple of days, leaving Vancouver.

34 Days to go.

2005-03-24T14:32:00.000-08:00

Last weekend while I was repairing our deck I slipped on a wet board and fell 3 feet down, hitting the frame with my ribs. Oh boy, that hurts. After seeing our family doctor I had to go to the Emergency at a Hospital in Vancouver. Luckily, my ribs don’t seem to be broken, only bruised. Bad enough, because it’s still hurting. So, I have to take it easy on my training walks and I’m carrying only a small packsack for the next couple of weeks. Everything will be fine and I still have 34 days before I leave for Spain.

Countdown

2005-03-11T18:37:00.000-08:00

Only one month to go and I’m on my way to Spain.
I have all my flights and train tickets booked and yesterday I even confirmed my hotel room in Toulouse.

My daily training walks are still on my schedule and I have increased the weight of my packsack. Also my group walk training for the Vancouver Sun Run is going very well. We are a good bunch of walkers and our trainer Louise is training us so well that we all have fun. We meet at 8:30 each Sunday morning and all of us are there, rain or shine.

Those Sunday walks are a special treat for me, because I walk without a packsack and this is of course much easier. Even though I’m without weight on my back I have to work hard to keep up with Anne, she is always in front of our group.

I'm ready !

2005-02-23T16:16:00.000-08:00

Today I did a special training walk along the roads of Bowen Island and around Killarney Lake. The weather was so sunny and warm (+16 C) that I geared up like for a real day on the Pilgrimage.

I filled up my packsack to 14 lb, including water bottle and food for my lunch break. As you can see on the picture, the packsack was not so full and I wonder how heavy it will be when I have to put in all the necessary things for the walk through Spain.

My walk through the forest of Bowen was so uplifting for me and my soul took all this beautiful nature in. I also felt that the strength of my body had improved since I am on my daily training to prepare myself.

I had my lunch break on this little bench on the board walk at Killarney Lake and felt at peace with myself.

When I came home to our house, about four hours later, I knew I am ready to go to Santiago de Compostela.

Opa on Training

2005-02-23T12:55:00.000-08:00

Opa on Training
Originally uploaded by Opa.

Step by Step

2005-01-30T13:57:00.000-08:00

Friday was my first Spanish. For the next 2 month I’ll attend the Spanish beginner classes and hopefully pick up some basic knowledge of Spanish.

The last week I conditioned my training walks with a packsack on my back and walked on the trails on Bowen and one day I walked in Vancouver through the city. Even with the packsack (not fully loaded yet) on my back I can feel that I’m improving in longer distances and I don’t feel so exhausted any more. The rainy weather here in the lower Mainland didn’t improve yet. Today, on my Sun-Run walk-training with the group on Bowen Island it was raining again, the third Sunday in the row – raining!

Training

2005-01-24T13:36:00.000-08:00

This is now my second week training for the Vancouver Sun Run. Anne and I have signed up for a “13 week 10 K Walk program” on Bowen Island. I think it will help me to stay in training for my “Camino Journey”.

We walk under various conditions along the hiking trails, rain or shine. We are committed for two days a week to train on our own and on Sunday mornings we meet as a group with our leader Louise Painter. During my training walks I have seen only snow or rain so far and came home pretty soaked.

Tomorrow I’ll be on the trails again and as an extra training for me, I’ll carry my “Camino-packsack”.

Santiago de Compostela

2005-01-14T17:33:00.000-08:00

Santiago de Compostela
Originally uploaded by Opa.

This is my goal, to walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port (France) through Spain to Santiago de Compostela. (Starting end of April of this year).

Photo by Hilary and Robin Butler

Horst's (Opa) Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

2005-01-12T20:41:00.000-08:00

The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago

The road across northern Spain to Santiago de Compostela in the northwest was one of the three major Christian pilgrimage routes during Middle Ages, leading to the resting place of the Apostle Saint James. Today the systems of trails and roads that made up the old pilgrimage route is the most popular long-distance trail in Europe, winding from the heights of the Pyrenees to the gentle rolling fields and woods of Galicia.

This is how David M. Gitlitz and Linda Kay Davidson the Road to Santiago in short comment. (Cultural Handbook – “The Pilgrimage Road to Santiago”)

Inspired by our friend Beat Sterchi, a Swiss writer, who wrote in 1995 “Going to Santiago” and recently through friends from Bowen Island, Leah Cline and Martin Clark who accomplished the Pilgrimage in 2003 and our friends Hilary and Robin Butler, also from Bowen Island, who went on the Pilgrimage in 2004, I now decided to follow the steps of my friends and the pilgrims of the last 1000 years to experience by myself the “Camino Journey”.

When asked my motivation, my answer is “to prove to myself that I’m still alive”. The more I prepare myself, physically and mentally, I have to admit, as I am not a religious person, I miss a spiritual touch in my life.

I’m told that a person who takes on this task of walking the old Pilgrimage Road to Santiago de Compostela, has a ”hidden agenda” which he or she is actually not aware of. During the Camino journey in peace with her- or himself, the “hidden agenda” will unfold.

Well, there is also for me the physical challenge to walk day after day for 800 km, carrying a packsack along the Camino journey. Which brings me back to my first reason: To prove to myself that I’m still alive.

With this blog “The Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela “ I’ll try with photos and reports while I’m on the road in Spain to keep in touch with friends and family. It might also be of interest to those who have traveled the Camino or to those who are also planning to do this pilgrimage.

I am planning to start my journey at the end of April this year. In the meantime, I would like to receive comments or advice.