Opa's Pilgrimage

Friends of the Camino

2005-07-19T18:05:00.000-07:00

Back at Home

Leaving Finisterre and starting the way back home was filled with proud feelings to have accomplished a kind of mission and eager to share the experiences with friends and family.

But also I feel a kind of sadness to let go of a life with friends I were connected in a spiritual way of trust and being in a world of magic where things happened to me and to my friends on the camino.
I’m not really back into my so called “normal life”.

Before I leave that kind of twilight zone, I would like to share my present thoughts about my pilgrimage.

When I started this amazing journey in Saint Jean Pied de Port, I saw my Pilgrimage as a kind of sportive challenge in my life and when I was asked, why am I doing this, I replied, because “I’ll prove to myself, that I’m still alive”.

But now, I know that this 800 km sportive challenge has been good for my body, but my Pilgrimage was a big learning process for my soul in a kind of magic and spiritual way for me.

I will remember most of all the people who I call my friends now. We shared joy, we talked about our sorrows, we let run our tears and we were happy in a wonderfully understanding world of friendship.

I learned, as a not religious person, that spirituality is also present in my life.

And the magic things that happened to me on the Camino I can’t believe they just happened by accident.

Finisterre

2005-06-08T17:00:00.000-07:00

Yesterday I arrived (by bus) in Finisterre. As soon as I left the bus I was surrounded by the old group. Melitta and Alexander were just starting their return trip. I found a room (tip from Christa who is staying in the next street) in a little inn with a view over the harbour for 15 Euro per night and I have booked it for five nights.

Today I went exploring through town and right away met Toni, who had set out with me from Saint Jean Pied de Port. Tonight we will meet in a bar in the harbour to say goodbye. I constantly meet familiar people and most of them remember my limping and are surprised that I made it here. Well, I had come close to giving up, but I have to thank the “Camino” for making it to the end.

Now I have a real cold and my nose is running. Good that I still have the little bottle of Olbas from Joannes. Sometimes I was tempted to give it away or leave it somewhere.

Finisterre - the End of the Earth - is not really the end of this blog. I will continue to write. So stay tuned!

End of Journey - June 5 (Day 37): Monte del Gozo to Santiago

2005-06-05T11:27:00.000-07:00

Walked 5 km from 6:00 to 7:15

The path went down to Santiago and the emotions were high when I had my picture taken at the “Santiago” city sign. I was the first in the office, collecting my certificate for completing the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela. There, too, the mood was great; I recognized many people and they were still congratulating me on my birthday. Then there was the pilgrims mass with 600 to 800 pilgrims in the cathedral and a sea of tearful faces. Nobody was shy and everyone gave way to tears. I saw so many familiar faces, including Alexander and Melitta who I tried to reach for a week so that we could celebrate this event together. At the end of the mass, Maggie greeted me. She was already on her return trip. We will all meet today to say goodbye. I expect this to be very emotional. Now is the question how we have changed, how we see the world and what will daily life bring us in our respective countries. It'’s very strange for me not to walk any more, having arrived at the end of the journey. I have had lots of experiences, mostly within myself, and sharing with others who are on the same journey.

Thanks to those who followed my journey, and thanks for your encouragement.

June 4 (Day 36): Ribadiso to Monte del Gozo

2005-06-05T11:26:00.000-07:00

Walked 26 km from 6 to 7:30

Terribly hot. At the first coffee stop, Christa caught up with me and we wanted to catch up with the old group. We took many breaks. 13.5 hours was the longest day on the Camino. Arrived in Monte del Gozo, a giant tourist complex - we were exhausted. One good thing was that I could do all my laundry and we knew tomorrow would be the big day! We did meet Brigitte in the refugio. I went to bed after ten, feeling numb.

June 3 (Day 35): Palas De Rei to Ribadiso

2005-06-05T11:24:00.000-07:00

Walked 25 km from 6:15 to 2:30

Foggy in the morning, then warm and very warm. The landscape here is almost tropical with palm trees in gardens, luscious flowers and trees that remind me of our Arbutus trees. In the morning I walked through a forest with marshes with a loud chorus of frogs. Saw a few slugs which reminded of Bowen and our garden. During the heat of day I walked through cool oak forests. Met Kati from Munich, who has walked with our group before, at a coffee bar at breakfast. When she told me about fleas in one refugio I immediately became itchy. At lunch I met Florence with her flute and then continued walking alone taking many breaks. At the refugio, Christa and Brigitte arrived after me - I was happy that I made it before them. I can walk longer distances, but I am still careful because I don't want to go back to the pain. Later, some people from Köln (Cologne) and Quebec joined us. They all knew about my birthday and we celebrated it with a couple of bottles of red wine. A German minister, Klaus, gave me his birthday blessing.

June 2 (Day 34): Portomarin to Palas de Rei

2005-06-02T23:18:00.000-07:00

Walked 18 km from 9:30 to 2:30

I slept in – the hotel bed was too comfortable – and I missed getting to the meeting point to start the day with the others. I told the people at the hotel that I missed meeting the others because of sleeping in. They gave me some birthday cake and hearing my story, a taxi driver drove me (as a birthday present) about 5 to 6 km to catch up with my friends. I did not meet them and walked alone through the beautiful landscape and small villages. At the kilometer marker of “68 km to Santiago” I waited for somebody to come by to take my picture. After all, it was my 68th birthday!

When I arrived in Palas De Rei, my pilgrim friends congratulated me and I was surprised how they knew. Alexander, Melitta, Christa and Florence placed birthday wishes (giving the time and date) for me at a well. In my attempt to catch up, I walked right past the well and didn’t see the note. Because they mentioned the time, I now can figure our their arrival time. Six of my pilgrim friends have already arrived, as well as Brigitte and Florence. We will all meet at 7 when we will get our pilgrims’ meal. Unfortunately, the refugio is full already and I hope that we will all see each other again somewhere.

June 1 (Day 33): Saria to Portomarin

2005-06-02T23:15:00.000-07:00

Walked 21 km, 6:30 –

Foggy, sunny, warm, very warm. Walked with a Spaniard who had foot problems. Checked into a hotel (30 Euro), enjoyed the bathtub and grooming without 50 people watching me. Met Brigitte in the evening and in the church, at the pilgrims’ communion, all of a sudden Christa sat beside me. Somehow we all cry easily. In the evening Florence played the flute outside the church, and it made me cry. There are such moments and it’s good that we pilgrim friends are not ashamed and that we don’t have to hide our feelings.

Potomarin is a small town beautifully situated beside a giant dammed lake, which has buried several villages. A church, where we had the pilgrims' communion, had been saved before the area was flooded by taking it down stone by stone, each one being numbered and the church was rebuilt on the present site.

Brigitte notified the old group by cell phone where we were planning to be tomorrow. Some of them remembered that it was going to be my birthday. We decided to meet for an early start.

89 km to go to Santiago!

May 31 (Day 32): Triacastela to Sarria

2005-05-31T22:50:00.000-07:00

Walked 21 km from 6:30 to 1:00

I started out alone and took the route through Samos, walking through beautiful forest, small bridges, very old villages and always alone. It was worthwhile to take that route. Unfortunately I was so exhausted after Samos that I took a taxi (for 4 Euro) shortly before Sarria to get a ride into town. The refugio here is not so good, cold showers and we are not allowed to wash our clothes. Since I have no clean clothes left, I went and found a laundry place, where I will be able to pick up my clean clothes at 8 tonight.

110 km to go to Santiago!

May 30 (Day 31): Hospital Da Condesa to Triacastela

2005-05-31T22:49:00.000-07:00

Walked 17 km from 7:00 to 12:00

Met Christa again in the refugio. She went on to the next one because she didn’t like the dirty showers. I was too tired and went to bed right away. The small rooms there were pleasant with only four beds, and that was a good night for me as opposed to sleeping in a room with 60.

May 29 (Day 30): Ambasmestas to Hospital Da Condesa

2005-05-31T22:48:00.000-07:00

Walked 24 km from 7:00 to 1:00

Lost the last group and took the wrong turn going up the mountains to Laguna de Castilla. But I saw on my map that I was going in the right direction. I was walking on a highway. It was terribly foggy and, reading a sign, I almost got run over by a car. The driver was more shocked than me because killing a pilgrim means bad luck. The driver took me up to the top where I saw familiar faces of people who had their packs transported there. Unfortunately we had no view because of the fog, and we all continued walking, half blind, to Laguna de Castilla, and there the two refugios were full. So I continued to hobble on to Hospital Da Condesa. There I found an almost new refugio where I met two students, Ivo and Matthias, from Leibzig. We were thrilled seeing the sign “140 km to Santiago”.

May 28 (Day 29): Cacabelos to Ambasmestas

2005-05-31T22:47:00.000-07:00

Walked 24 km from 6:30 to 3:00

Walked with a group of five Austrians and again met Tony. Got two walking sticks from a couple from Stuttgart – right away the world looks different! The cherries are starting to ripen and it’s warm to very warm here.

May 27 (Day 28): Ponferrada to Cacabelos

2005-05-31T22:14:00.000-07:00

Walked 16 km from 7:00 to 2:00

Met Tony, Mika and Christina and walked a bit with Christa, but most of the time I am walking alone. I am too slow. Heat and limping forced me to walk a shorter distance.

May 26 (Day 27): El Acebo to Ponferrada

2005-05-27T07:24:00.000-07:00

Walked 17 km from 8:00 to 3:30

Walked together with Christa the whole way very slowly with many stops.

May 25 (Day 26): Rabanal Del Camino to El Acebo

2005-05-27T07:23:00.000-07:00

Walked 18 km from 7:00 to 3:00

Climbing steadily up to the 1500 pass, and we are now on a plateau at about 900 m. Saw Brigitte again and later Alexander with Melitta, then finally found the cross where I placed the Butler’s stone. Received pilgims’ blessings at a congregation. A woman from Hamburg, Christa joined our group. I walked very slowly but caught up with the group at the refugio. Christa has a health clinic in Hamburg and was able to help me with Reiki.

May 24 (Day 25): Astorga to Rabanal Del Camino

2005-05-27T07:20:00.001-07:00

Walked 20 km from 8:00 to 4:00

A hilly walk, climbing steadily, warm to very warm.

Stopping at a coffee bar in a little mountain village, I was overjoyed to again meet Mika, the man from Finland who is now walking with his wife Christina who flew in to join him. We walked together. His wife also had difficulty with hiking. At the refugio I also met Toni, the Californian I had met in the first days.

Too many beds too close together in this refugio.

My left leg and my right foot always hurt in the beginning and after resting.

Photos Uploaded

2005-05-25T00:28:00.000-07:00

Day 4: Pamplona to Puente La Reina

Day 4: Pamplona to Puente La Reina
Originally uploaded by Opa.

View other photos at http://www.flickr.com/photos/opa/sets/236886/

May 24: On the road again

2005-05-25T00:03:00.000-07:00

It’s 7:30 and I am about to set out on my day’s walk. I feel ok, but I will take it easy today.

May 23 - The first batch of photos

2005-05-25T00:01:00.000-07:00

Today I am feeling a lot better and if I continue to feel better, I’ll be on my way again tomorrow.

Seeing me limping to the reception desk at the hotel, the receptionist must have felt pity and let me persuade her to give me the key for the computer to upload some of my photos. So, finally, here is the first batch of 66 photos.

They can be viewed at: http://www.flickr.com/photos/opa/sets/236886/

Photos are not in exact order, but are grouped by days. I would have liked to upload more photos, but I can’t overstay my welcome, especially since others are waiting to use the computer

One more day of Rest

2005-05-22T15:29:00.000-07:00

I did go to the hospital today. The doctor confirmed that I have a muscle cramp in my left leg and the beginning of tendonitis in my right foot. I can walk much better already, but the doctor suggested that I stay one more day before continuing my walk, and I should cut down on the kilometers I walk daily. I think I am going to heed the doctor’s advice, so I have booked another night at the hotel.

It’s only 250 km to Santiago de Compostella, and I should manage that easily before my flight to Vienna leaves on June 13.

It’s sunny here, but there is a cold wind coming from the mountains. I went out only briefly today, went to the cathedral and to the refugio again and saw familiar faces. People there had suggested I see a doctor. Had a long sleep in the afternoon and am just coming back from dinner, to go right back into bed. I am tired and am looking forward to sleeping in.

Still in Astorga – Resting my Legs

2005-05-22T08:48:00.000-07:00

I have free internet acces in the hotel. Resting feels good. I was only briefly out for breakfast and stopped by the refugio to see who else was there. Brigitte from Northern Germany was still there because she walked too much the day before and is spending a day of rest. Maybe I’ll go to the refugio for dinner, otherwise I am going to stay put and won’t go far from the hotel so that I can lie down if I need to.

It’s not so bad with my glasses, the lenses are not broken and I can see enough without them. I like the landscape like that, it looks like a monet painting. I wish I could upload the 250 photos I have made so far.

Even with this rest period, I will have plenty of time to get to Santiago de Compostela to catch my flight to Vienna. Actually I don’t even have to walk to Finisterre at the Atlantic.

Greetings to all who are following my walk through this diary.

Temporary Defeat

2005-05-22T00:47:00.000-07:00

On May 21st I left San Miguel del Camino together with Kurt at 6:30. Weather was ok. We followed a pilgrim and there were a few behind us. We all followed like sheep and missed a turn-off. Had to walk back a long way.

The landscape was beautiful and we are heading to higher ground. I have not yet reached the cross where the Butler's stone is to be placed.

In the afternoon, after the lunch break, I suddenly had real trouble walking. My left leg along the thighs hurt with every step. I took another break and Maggie came by, offering to walk with me and Kurt. I sent them along and said I would take a hotel in Astorga and would meet them for dinner.

Walking was very slow from that point on. I had to shift my weight to the other leg, causing my foot to swell. I did make it to the hotel in Astorga, limping all the way. I am staying here for two nights (41 Euro per night). Took a hot bath, put healing cream on both legs and took Ibuprofen.

In the evening I did make it to the refugio and to dinner and met Brigitte, Maggie, Kurt and others.

After the first night in the hotel, I am still limping. For me very frustrating. No blisters, never any pain, always walked good distances and now I am limping. Today, I am starting slowly, looking at the town, and tomorrow I think I will be able to carry on. I may walk less kilometers daily, but I still have lots of time.

Day 21 (May 20): Leon to San Miguel del Camino

2005-05-20T22:01:00.001-07:00

Walked 25 km from 6:30 to 1:30
Brand new refugio, two-bed rooms, 7 Euro per person. I share a room with Kurt. In an hour we’ll got out to eat and early tomorrow morning, when it’s still cool, we will walk towards the mountains.

Leon, a beautiful city

2005-05-20T22:01:00.000-07:00

I loved Leon. A great city with parks along the river, lots of little cafes along the small streets in the old city, where you can sit outside. Leon has the most beautiful cathedral I have seen so far.
Went for dinner in “downtown” Leon with Maggie, Brigitte and Melissa. We all liked Leon very much and would move here in an instant. But, we all realized how much more expensive things are here compared to the small towns and villages. So I left Leon this morning. I have not met the others who stayed in different refugios.
Walked with Kurt from Vienna to San Miguel del Camino. In the distance we saw the mountains, and, because we were in good condition, walked further than planned so that we would have to walk less kilometers through the mountains. It’s very warm again. Now I am faster than my friends, but I hope to meet up with them in the next few days. Tomorrow I’ll come to the place where I will leave the stone from the Butlers.

Leon

2005-05-19T22:12:00.000-07:00

Arrived in Leon today and first of all did the laundry.

Day 18 (May 17): Calzadilla to Sahagun
Walked 24 km from 7:30 to 1:30, together with the "old" group (Alexander, Melitta and Brigitte), and met Maggie from UBC and Melissa from UVic. Slept in a refugio at the church. We shared in making our meal there.

Day 19 (May 18): Sahagun to Reliegos
Walked 31 km from 7:00 to 2:30
I separated from Alexander and the group since Melitta was in pain and I could walk faster. Walked the first part with Maggie and then I walked an alternative route. I mostly walked alone. The weather is nice and warm now. Unfortunately I broke my glasses!

Day 20 (May 19): Reliegos to Leon
Walked 26 km from 6:30 to 12:30
I walked a while with Brigitte who I had met again, but Brigitte was fed up to walk on the bad road and through the endless industrial areas on the outskirts of Leon. I carried on and continued walking in great heat and arrived here in quite good shape. Here in the refugio I recognized old faces of people who I had met two weeks ago. After the laundry I'll tour through the town.

Made It Halfway

2005-05-16T23:46:00.000-07:00

Day 16 (May 15): Fromista to Carrion De Los Condes
Walked 21 km from 6:45 to 1:30
Took alternate route along river, with the old group. In the evening, received pilgrim blessing in church. I read the English version of the prayer to the English pilgrims, then the priest gave his blessing with holy water. We pilgrims held hands in a circle. I must admit, it was a special and solemn moment.

Day 17 (May 16): Carrion De Los Condes to Calzadilla
Left in the morning at 7, in pouring rain and walked 18 km along a straight route in cold rain. Arrived at 11. I learned that the straight path can be a difficult one!
Here at Calzadilla I am doing my laundry and am sitting at a computer, wearing my last clean clothes and I am freezing. It’s funny, but this refugio even has a swimming pool.
When my clothes are dry, I’ll go to the village for something to eat.